Systems

Anchors

Building and equalizing anchors that hold load on their own and don't shock-load each other if one piece fails.

8 terms

The terms, A–Z

Anchor building

Cordelette

Also calledcord

A loop of cord rigged between two or more anchor pieces and tied off at a single master point, a quick way to build a anchor from gear already on the rack.

Anchor principle

Equalized

Also calledequalization

Rigged so that each piece in a anchor carries a fair share of the load, rather than one piece taking it all while the others go slack -- the goal behind techniques like the , , and .

Anchor building

Master Point

Also calledpower point

The single point where an anchor's load gathers, where the climbing or belay rope actually clips in. Built by an rig like a or .

Anchor principle

Multi-Directional Anchor

An anchor built to hold a pull from more than one direction, needed any time the load on it could shift, such as the first piece of a traversing pitch or a crevasse rescue anchor.

Anchor building

Natural Anchor

Also callednatural protection

An anchor built around a tree, boulder, or rock feature rather than placed gear, inspected for solidity the same as any other anchor before trusting it.

Anchor building

Quad Anchor

Also calledquad

A loop of cord tied with two overhand knots, clipped through two of the four resulting strands at the master point, giving full redundancy between two anchor points even if one strand is cut.

Anchor principle

SERENE

Also calledanchor equalization principle

A checklist for a sound anchor: Solid, Equalized, Redundant, Efficient, No Extension. Each piece holds load on its own, and no single failure should shock-load the rest.

Anchor building

Sliding X

Also calledself-equalizing anchor

A sling or cord crossed between two anchor points and twisted into a loop, creating a master point that re-centers itself if the direction of pull shifts. Usually rigged with a limiter knot to cap how far it can extend if one point fails.