Risk & Judgment

Hazard Assessment

The hazards worth naming before you're standing under them, and the judgment calls that come with each one.

6 terms

The terms, A–Z

Hazard

Altitude Illness

Also calledAMS, acute mountain sickness, HACE, HAPE

A spectrum of illness from inadequate acclimatization, ranging from a mild headache (AMS) to fluid building in the brain (HACE) or lungs (HAPE), either of which can be fatal without prompt descent.

Hazard

Lightning

A storm hazard that rises sharply on exposed ridges and summits, where afternoon convective buildup is the usual trigger. The standard defense is an early start and being off high terrain before storms build.

Concept

Objective Hazard

Also calledobjective danger

A hazard you're exposed to just by being in a place, regardless of skill or judgment, like , icefall, or a serac collapse. Distinct from , which come down to decisions a party makes.

Hazard

Rockfall

Rock dislodged by freeze-thaw, wind, animals, or other climbers, falling onto terrain below. Risk rises sharply in the afternoon as the day's warmth melts the ice holding loose rock in place.

Hazard

Subjective Hazard

A danger created by a party's own decisions and skill, rather than the terrain itself, such as poor route-finding, fatigue, or pushing on past a safe turnaround time. The counterpart to .

Hazard

Whiteout

A loss of visual contrast between snow, sky, and terrain, usually from low cloud or fog over a snowfield, making it easy to lose all sense of slope angle, distance, or direction.